晒在荷兰的喜剧里——“海平面下的骑行”　2008-11-11 00:15

分类：默认分类
字号： 大  中  小
作者：知鱼

引子：思念了就回归
回国了，从西方到东方，只需要10个小时就可以完成时空穿梭，除了清醒的知道我要补充睡眠以外，大脑晕厥症总是时不时间歇性的发作，以提醒我飞绕地球小半圈儿的辛苦，首当其冲的第一件糊涂就犯在时间上，手机键盘竟然也因思念祖国而离奇失效，作为乐途的编辑，5月3号——9号我有幸和北京其他平面和网络旅游媒体的记者一起体验了在荷兰骑行的快乐，不得不承认，在有限的时间里要得到无限的感触，的确是一件需要花费点脑细胞的工作。
刨掉来回消耗的时间，真正的荷兰游玩聚焦在4号-8号的5天里，主办方把荷兰人同自然和人文的亲近关怀很紧凑的集中在行程安排当中，几乎每天都在我爱的森林里，几乎每天都在自行车上临晒阳光，几乎每天都因和素不相识的荷兰人打招呼而腮帮子抽筋。
回国的前两天里，新鲜的和不新鲜的记忆，同精彩的和不精彩的照片糅杂在一起，某些时候竟然觉得有点难以集中自己的思维，旅行中的我，总是希望尽量不留下遗憾，但事实终归有点事与愿违，旅行后的我，又希望像醍醐灌顶一样下笔千言，用来回望旅行中的那时我的身影，发现旅行中我们的样子，品尝旅行中的甘飨，这，似乎比旅行着本身要更加快乐和自我，也许是因为没有了背包的负累，没有了奔波的辛苦，当全身心只投放在回想爱情甜蜜里的时候，人，总是要心存感激的。
每次回到北京，无论从境内还是从境外，落地后看到街市的第一时间里总有几丝矫情的感动，满眼的吵闹和嘈杂并不陌生，很多个奔波的国人身影，恍惚在白色雾霭里，脸上总有几丝未知的痛苦，拥挤的479路公交车上，售票员维持秩序的声音还是那么声嘶力竭，同样拥挤的灰色建筑，窗外没有花草。
我看着同样也被拥挤着，突然间换了宽容的面孔，观察着被这拥挤后的每个人的反应，有冷漠的有愤怒的，有泰然的有愉悦的，有受力者也有反拥挤的，有循规蹈矩的更有另辟蹊径的……林林总总，不厌其烦的上演。就在这被推搡着的一刹那，我东施效颦的，迅速给自己一个归国的确认，是的，我回来了，因为面前的北京就是这样的宽容，中国就是这样的宽容。
但是，我不能只让自己长时间停留在一种时空里，那一个骄阳下的荷兰，和这一片灰霾里的北京，都不将是停顿的沙漏，过去的我和当前的我，似乎要用第三时空里的第三双眼来定论，这不受限于过去和当下时空里的审视，如一只公正的手，引领我写下前面和后面的字。


荷兰的概况和历史：
荷兰是欧洲西部一个经济高度发达的国家，领土狭窄，人口众多，因为北临北海，地势平坦低洼，不少地方低于海平面，必须建立排水系统，因此很早就开始建设运河、水闸和其他排水设施，依靠1，500英里的大堤坝保护，1920年以来，政府开始排干伊塞米地区（Ijsselmeer）的海水，形成一个人造的陆地，称为祖德兹地区（the Zuider Zee）,是欧洲最大的填海工程之一。因此，这个国家就是建立在设计的基础上的，没有设计，也就没有荷兰。荷兰人的历史就是一部与大海斗争、以设计建立生存空间的历史。
荷兰拥有相当悠久的文明历史，在文艺复兴之后，一度是海上强权国家，并且具有发达的殖民主义历史，其海外殖民地一直遍及远东，印度尼西亚就是一个前荷兰殖民地。第二次世界大战结束以来，荷兰进入资本主义经济的稳健发展阶段，经过几十年的发展，现在的荷兰已经是世界最富裕的国家之一，拥有发达的工业、农业、旅游业和金融业，其海上运输在世界上具有举足轻重的地位。
荷兰是一个人口密度比较高的西欧国家，1991年统计它总人口为1，500多万，而国土面积却只有10，000多平方英里，其中城市人口为88%，因此这个国家的都市非常发达，公用设施、公用住房、公共交通的设计都非常完善。
荷兰的经济发达，其主要的经济部门包括有：冶金、机器制造、化工、石油冶炼、钻石切割、电子工业、旅游业等，是欧洲工业最发达的国家之一。从劳动力在各个部门的分布可以看出国家经济结构的特点：荷兰只有1%人口从事农业，30%人口从事工业和制造业，而44%人口在服务业工作，另外23%人口是政府部门的工作人员。

yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:20
荷兰原住民为凯尔特人（Celtic）和日耳曼人部落。公元前55年罗马大帝凯撒（Julius Caesar）征服此地。在查理曼帝国（the Empire of Charlemagne）时期，荷兰（The Netherlands）包括荷兰、比利时和弗兰得（Holland，Belgium，Flanders）三地。帝国以后，此地被各种地方强权瓜分，之后又被西班牙国王查理五世（Charles V Of Spain）占领，他的儿子飞利浦二世（Philip II）一直力图阻止荷兰人的独立和新教改革的势力（1568-1573年间）。
沉默的威廉（William the Silent, Prince of Orange）1579年在乌尔斯特联盟（the Union of Utrecht）中把北方的省份组织在一起，成立一个叫Estates的联盟国体，本身有主权，但是同时有总联盟（Estates the States-General）代表，有些类似联邦政体。1581年，荷兰逐渐脱离西班牙的控制，强大的荷兰共和国（Dutch Republic）形成，特别是成为海上的主要强权国家，开始早期的殖民开拓和扩张。

联合荷兰共和国在1795年瓦解，原因是法国人在此成立巴塔维亚共和国，拿破仑上台以后，任命他的兄弟任荷兰国王。1810年，拿破仑兼并荷兰，直到1813年。拿破仑战争后，维也纳会议组成荷兰王国，包括比利时在内，由威廉一世领导。1830年比利时分离出去，成立独立的比利时王国。荷兰在1814年订立宪法，以后有所改订，但是荷兰的君主立宪体制即从那时开始确立，迄今没有再改变。荷兰在第一次世界大战中保持中立，但是却在1940-1945年的第二次世界大战中被德国占领。
荷兰长期以来没有卷入地区性和全球性军事纠纷，使这个国家从印尼独立以后一直享有和平的发展，这是这个国家富强的重要原因之一。

下面的行程记录从首都机场开始哈，呵呵
雨中启程：
 
5月3号的北京上午，阴云来的比公交车开的要快，眼见乌云遮眼，雨滴很应时应景的滴在我新买的防水冲锋衣上，还有同样新鲜的背包上，一切行头都是崭新的，这次新的旅途，我不敢再犯提前奢望的毛病，不期望得到太感性的认识，只是以一个记录者的身份，最大忠实的描绘荷兰，和它海平面下的骑行之旅。
初春尚未全热的天空下，这场雨竟然下的如同盛夏的雷雨轰鸣，暂不愿罢休，最终导致航班延误近5个小时，在这5个小时的等待里，我任由自己迟钝在忙碌工作过后的大脑停顿里，从中饭等到晚饭，同行的队友们从陌生等到脸熟，快餐店从排大队等到打烊，牌场散了很多伙，逛折扣店的路线可以谱一首曲，傍晚6点钟，终于等到雨停云歇，南方航空载着辘辘的我们，滑翔上云上无雨的领空。
东半球和西半球的水，约好了不同时降下。北京狂雨的前因导致荷兰烈日的后果，在随后的几天里，荷兰的天空，像一张醉在新婚典礼中的青年人的脸，只奉献灿烂。我们，像参加婚礼的花童，奔跑骑行在四处随见的甜蜜芬芳里，绿草，伙伴着黄色的雏菊和白色蒲公英，种子吹到哪里，哪里就是永远的驻地，它们无人打扰的，蔓延着自己的血脉，扩展着生命的领地，5月，正是怒放一切的季节，不单只是光线的剧场。
当光线刺过花蕾的时候，像一刃庖丁解牛的尖刀，随意放行，游刃有余。每次让我感动的，就是这种很单纯光线下的透明质感，和花草树木仰头临对的身姿，哪怕我远远的，都没有近距离瞧上一眼，可是心里，仿佛已被光线的温柔刺伤，体会着那种被晒得很暖的满足，又像被圣贤看得透明一样的恭敬，这时，我只是草地上的一朵花而已，没有言语。

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刚到荷兰，GOBT的政府官员就召集大家在宾馆会议厅迎接大家，并介绍了荷兰旅游现状和下面几天来的行程。
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GOBT执行主席DRS.(J.AN)DIJKEMA介绍了荷兰独特的骑行旅游方式，在接下来的几天里他一直陪同我们游览。

yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:21
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GOBT执行主管Marc致欢迎词并介绍旅游行程安排。
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交流完毕，队友们喝了点热汤各自回到房间休息，在从机场来的路上听说这是个中式风格的酒店，但夜色和困眼却隐藏了一切。

yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:21
我的房间：
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第二天早晨起来从房间阳台上向外望
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果然是中式风格的宾馆，呵呵
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yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:22
果然是中式风格的宾馆，呵呵
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宾馆的早餐很丰盛，饱食过后到楼下时，早晨的阳光已经很热烈了，顺手再拍几张：
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yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:23
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我们的汽车和热情的司机，大家注意看汽车后面的拖车，里面装了20辆我们的骑行工具——自行车。
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yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:23
第一站是库肯霍夫郁金香公园（Keukenhof），到站后先请到会客室喝东西，呵呵。
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中间着红衣服白坎肩的女孩是当地大学的华人博士生，她来这里勤工俭学，专门接待华人团队。
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会客室窗外已人头蜂拥：
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yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:23
库肯霍夫郁金香公园（[font="Times]Keukenhof）：
相关资讯：从阿姆斯特丹国立博物馆门口有游车直接到丽兹市（Lisse）闻名遐迩的库肯霍夫郁金香公园（[font="Times]Keukenhof），来回路费加公园门票大约一共[font="Times]18欧，汽车大约单程花费一个小时。如果单独购买公园门票大约花费[font="Times]13.5欧。
相关网站：[font="Times]www.keukenhof.nl
公园简介：占地[font="Times]32公顷，在过去的近[font="Times]60年中，这里一直是荷兰最负盛名的旅游地之一，在世界范围内也很有名。公园里的步行道有[font="Times]15公里，有儿童游乐场、大型迷宫和动物的散养区，它是荷兰最大的雕塑公园，也是世界上最大的球根花卉公园，拥有[font="Times]100余种、[font="Times]450万株郁金香，[font="Times]700万株花卉球根为手工种植。公园[font="Times]2008年新目标：在[font="Times]Keukenhof中种植出世界上最大的郁金香，同时为了迎接“世界上最盛大、最重要的体育赛事”奥运会，公园将举办一系列以“中国—[font="Times]2008奥运会—北京”为主题的活动，活动将关注中国的文化和历史的重要性，通过不同的灵感花园和各种展览来体现主题，例如用花组成中国的传统图案、中国式花园、奥运展、中式球根花、奥运会历程等。


[font="Times] 库肯霍夫郁金香公园（[font="Times]Keukenhof）门口：

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进入园内，先看路线：
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yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:24
正式进园：
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此主题相关图片如下：dsc_0081.jpg
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由于不敢期待，我甚至错误的以为已经误了郁金香的花期。以至当真的步入Keukenhof郁金香花园的时候，总有点真假难辨的倦钝，即刻想起一个才女的经典句子：由于看过太多的虚假，我竟不敢相信真实。造假和打假的你争我斗在这里显得很是多余，郁金香没有香气，也不产蜂蜜，它似乎只是把所有的光华都聚集在了颜色上，单纯的绚烂着，不吸引鼻腔只按摩眼睛，尤其当它们群势的时候，美的窒息，不忍碰，不舍得摘取，甚至合影都是一种自毁。

有些名字，其实并不重要，毕竟很多只是在温室里培育的混搭品种。我疑惑的，只是它们怎么能同时选择自己最豆蔻的时间伙同绽放，每一粒金钟都做工精妙，最经典的火拼红色，最忧郁的飘摇静默，最深邃的独立人格，最暧昧的牵引眼神，最花斑的热带水果……。然而，郁金香的花儿只有暖色，冷色全靠薰衣草来衬托，这两种团结就是力量的花草，互相勾勒。
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yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:24
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yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:24
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yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:25
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yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:25
人群，是除了花朵之外的另一道风景，他们也来享受阳光，只是在镜头前懂得变换姿势。在这号称世界上最美丽的春季花园里，不存在丑陋的面孔。据我观察，长时间和花在一起的人，他的面孔甚至语气其实是很不同的，爱花的人自然承授了花儿甜美的习性，如岁寒三友的文人骚客寄予植物以品藻性情一样，郁金香的花，带给人的只有喜剧，不见悲剧。
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库肯霍夫郁金香公园（Keukenhof）距离阿姆斯特丹40分钟车程，花园很大，一进园我就自行走丢又自行归队一回，剩下的又多次发生在不同的队友身上。一直站着，没有时间允许我们静静的坐下来，像孩童一样玩弄沙子，像花儿一样吮吸阳光，幸福的郁金香，要么受惠于阳光，要么受惠于水泽，看的多了，这如飞蝗压境的纯色突然给人一种距离感，铺天盖地的娇惯让人浮躁，太美好的东西反而让人迷失了自己，因而让人唯恐躲之不及。生于忧患，死于安乐的古训也许原本不是简单盛开的郁金香应该承担的，但我的眼睛，开始想念秋季新疆的草场，和雪山顶上吹来的风。

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yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:25
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yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:25
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yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:25
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yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:26
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公园举办中国龙的主题花卉活动：
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此主题相关图片如下：dsc_0170.jpg
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yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:26
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yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:26
透过公园的围栏，看到田野上一片片花田：
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yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:27
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yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:27
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yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:27
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yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:32
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yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:32
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yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:32
中午吃荷兰人最传统和经典的生鱼汉堡和饮料，这间屋子是公园里的VIP Room：
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吃完饭接着餐花，呵呵：
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yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:33
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yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:33
出园时再看一眼门口
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找回汽车，将各自座骑找好，开始了我们的第一次以郁金香花园为起点和终点的骑行：
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忽见一片火红的花田，队友们呼啸着扑上去：
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yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:33
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yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:33
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yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:34
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培育鲜艳郁金香的土竟然这么低调：
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yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:34
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yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:34
骑回公园，将车放回拖车：
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yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:34
正要开车，却发现轮胎陷到草地里了：
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最后是公园派来大拖拉机才解决了窘境：
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yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:34
傍晚时分，住在森林里的宾馆Golden Tulip：
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房间不算大，但空间利用的很好，干净而舒适：
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yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:38
晚饭开桌啦：
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yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:38
主菜是鸡肉或鱼肉，这是配菜--炸土豆：
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最后是甜品冰激凌：
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第二天清早起来，餐毕，到宾馆前的空地上，拍拍宾馆的清晨和一些发光的植物：
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yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:39
租赁自行车真的很方便：
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yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:39
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yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:39
乡野的单车骑行：
有时候我们很羡慕空中飞鸟，或者池中自由的鱼，加之大鹏展翅的翔驭总让割舍不掉自由的人触动。荷兰国土狭小，但当我们骑行在旷野草地里的时候，偶尔竟有辽阔的感觉，固然不能与我们的大好河山在面积上相比，荷兰北部的乡村里，人均占有绿地的面积也许并不比中国高，但他们至少高出中国的人均享有绿地的面积。
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无论贫穷还是富贵，其实“享受”只是一种生活的态度。黑天鹅的眼睛里看不到灾难，它们，如此轻快的驾驭着水，看不到水下的划翔，蛇身一样逶迤的鹅颈，让玄黑的肤色显得鬼马。天鹅的名字，总带着点圣洁，似乎真是天上降落的鸟羽，在小波漾漾的水面上，享受清晨的清冷和阳光。
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太阳带来了能量，也带来了灼伤。天那么长，黄色自行车轮下的路总希望再慢一点，尽管平坦的骑行显不出疲惫，但我依然希望自己能够远离队伍，只要足够我坐在田埂上。慌忙骑行中，抬头看见一尾鹰，陶醉在风里，还有意外翔起的白鹭，消细的双腿都来不及收紧，却只顾半空里晾晒自己的双翅，也许是为了让气团给羽毛搔痒。每一朵简单的黄色雏菊，都像一首经典的诗，看它们阳光下的样子，如洒落的鹅黄纸屑，再轻易生长的生命，都有星星可燎原的潜质，只要允许它有善良的天性和本真的个性。
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荷兰的自行车是一种受保护的交通工具，专有路线和专有车道，让骑行变得轻松。我爱的树荫，像指缝里投下的遮蔽，它总让那些光显得很珍贵，光影的追弄，缓慢而闪烁着明晦阴阳，失语的时候，想起黄色白桦树的闪亮叶子，是的，那段“有些光，似乎是它们偷来的……”一直在我的脑际回响。
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yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:39
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yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:40
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yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:40
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yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:40
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yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:40
德凡特（[font="Times]Deventer）的纪念日
相关网站：[font="Times]www.vvvdeventer.nl
关键词：中世纪
[font="Times]
到达这座建在[font="Times]Ijssel 河上的小城邦的时候，正值欧洲纪念二战的自由解放日，昔日战火换作今日鲜花，呈现一丝哀伤的革命烈士纪念碑，雕刻的是一位母亲，青黑的裸身雕塑不经意的蹲在街角，艰难的抚着自己的肉身，心痛着，这发肤的伤又如何能敌过战事的频仍。
[font="Times]
她就这样用一个姿势为战火默默哀伤，不像天安门，我们毕竟不习惯裸着纪念革命，工农红军的群雕眼神呈现出坚毅，一切关于形式的运用都像说明文那么直接，反而断送了想象。但其实，裸体的哀伤有一股力量，在光鲜烈日下仍能默默传递给来访的我们，教人不妨稍稍注目。
[font="Times]
德凡特的中世纪，凝固在建筑里。砖石教堂的尖顶，指向崇高。欧洲的繁复装饰才刚刚开始崭露头角，这些哥特式建筑总喜欢戴一个小丑样的帽子，尖尖直直的，试想自己如果身在那段欧洲“最黑暗的时期”里，一定希望早点飞身天外，正应了尖顶给人的启示，也是引人出世的基督精神所指，和东方飞檐回卷的入世回归截然不同，两者如互相否定的南北二极，却注定彼此吸引。
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他们不喜欢平铺对称，更喜欢尖耸入云。砖体的坚硬，如削瘦矍铄的气质老人，见骨不见肉。[font="Times]6个多世纪前的沧桑和咖啡座前映笑的脸寻找着平衡中的和谐，小镇已然非常安详，但其实教堂里的光影正忙碌着交错，想到我曾经进入的拜访，一下子，再高调的笑都变得很乖，圣母是基督教里的佛，她用施恩的手普渡众圣子。而真正的佛，住在东方的石窟里并不在建筑里，这些最崇高精神的领袖，追随了缔造者的意愿。
[font="Times]
风铃、钟铃和手摇铃的建筑面墙，换了清新的样子，因为它有花式蛋糕的面孔。这个自由国度的国旗，也在戏弄着风，上面的蓝色让天空的颜色旋即逊色，我们穿绕在巷子里，透过摇摆的绿冠树和红瓦屋顶，总能愰身看见哥特式尖顶骄傲的样子。
[font="Times]
总在古老里，一闪而过的这句话像夏天难以驱赶的蚊声，透过现代建筑无法遮挡的悠久，随身给人提醒。每个城市都是一张特殊的脸，德凡特（[font="Times]Deventer）的特殊在于它更像一个没有围墙的小型博物馆，从城市规划上对待历史和文化的态度就感受出尊重和真实，我们自然要放慢脚步仔细领悟，德凡特（[font="Times]Deventer）的确不大，但只一句话：不以大小论英雄。

德凡特（Deventer）的地标：
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yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:40
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yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:41
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为了纪念二战，所有的商店都关张了，只好拍拍橱窗：
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yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:41
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yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:41
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yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:42
咖啡馆小憩时，两位GOBT的官员向我们推荐德凡特（Deventer）著名而古老的点心，有橘皮的味道：
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yingerlee 2008-08-04 11:42
饭后运动开始：
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位置：座落在凡高国家森林公园[font="Times] （[font="Times]National Park De Hoge Veluwe）内。
关键词：始建于[font="Times]1916年，于[font="Times]1920年完工，曾经是库勒慕勒一家（[font="Times](Kroller Muller Family）的农舍，“狩猎城堡”的设计灵感来自猎人保护神圣[font="Times]/胡伯尔多思（[font="Times]St. Hubertus）的传说，而此建筑也是整个荷兰最重要的历史建筑之一。
门票：成人[font="Times]2欧元[font="Times]/人；儿童[font="Times]1欧元[font="Times]/人
参观限制：大约需要[font="Times]45分钟参观，最多容纳[font="Times]20个参观者[font="Times]/次
远望 休伯特狩猎城堡 (Mansion House St. Hubertus)：
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引文来源  晒在荷兰的喜剧里——“海平面下的骑行” 风光摄影 Landscape 狗狗静电BBS - wwW.DoGGiEhoMe.CoM - powered by phpwind.net
 
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